Turbo Problem

[Thefletch]

hiya folks

 

I have had problems with the turbo on my Ford Galaxy (90) 1997 Aspen since I have had it. When the car is under load or on a hill and in 3rd 4th or 5th, it reaches about 3000rpm then the turbo kicks off. The load it is under determines the revs the turbo kicks off but when it happens, if I take my foot off the accelerator for a moment, then back on it comes back until it reaches load again. It has not really cuased too much of a problem but now I have a caravan to tow its really causing problems. It has gone into the garage twice over the last 18 months for this fault but each time they dont knw whats causing it. I have fitted new MAF sensor, its had new full exaust and TMAP sensor for non related problems but the problem still remains.

 

This weekend I thought I would have a good look since the problem seems to me to indicate a boost/pressure problem and it hoped it might be a split vacuum that the machanic had failed to pick up on. When trying to follow the vacuum pipes, found that the pipe going to the back of the air box has broken off. I can see where it had been glued in the past. Can anybody help me as to whether this could actually account for this type of fault and also how does it connect to the back of the air box since whatever was there to hold it on place originally has broken off?

 

cheers

 

Fletch

[tdi90]

My 1999 TDi 90bhp has the same issue. Fine in 1,2,3, but in 4th/5th over 3k rpm the turbo kicks off. I scanned the car with Vagcom and it listed the following:

 

1 Fault Found:

 

00575 - Intake Manifold Pressure

 

17-00 - Control Difference

 

So far I have changed all the vacum hoses, bar the one to the turbo (car needs to be up on ramps to get to it) and it has improved slightly. I have ordered part number F1003803 (

[faz]

I have had this problem for 2 years, cured it at the weekend by changing both pipes from the turbo to the N75 valve, I got some 3mm ID silicon hose from an ebay seller, cant believe the difference, no more limp mode and engine seems to run a lot smoother. Edited May 12, 2008 by faz

[Thefletch]

Many thanks for your reply folks. A garage has scanned it with their diagnostic software and found no fault code, it has gone to Ford for a scan for a different fault and they said nothing was shown.

 

Can I ask a few things?

 

Is the 3.5mm and 5mm piping I need just normal rubber piping? Nothing special since it turbo pipes?

 

Did the similar fault you experienced similar to mine require the ignition to be turned off and back on to reset or like I have experienced just by easing off and back on the accelerator?

 

Where is the best place to buy an N75 valve? I cant see any on Ebay?

 

cheers

 

Fletch

[tdi90]

I just asked for vacum pipe for the air control system for a car. The stuff I used has'nt got the braided outer like the OE pipes, but its a lot thicker than the OE stuff. For the 5mm pipe, I used proper petrol pipe.

 

Before I changed the pipework, I mostly had to re start the car to get the turbo going again, but now easing off the throttle does the job. My N75 should be here today hopefully, so I'll let you know how it goes.

 

I'd change the pipework first, then change the N75.

 

On the attachment below, the black arrow is the N75, and the red arrow is the the only bit of pipe thats a bugger to change (have to get at the turbo from underneath and at the back of the engine)

 

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e237/gotsells/Vacumsystem.jpg

[Thefletch]

Many thanks again for your help and adding that pic, thats very helpfull. I think I will do as you suggested and replace the vacuum pipes first and go from there. Will let you know how I get on.

 

cheers

 

Fletch

[insider]

I just asked for vacum pipe for the air control system for a car. The stuff I used has'nt got the braided outer like the OE pipes, but its a lot thicker than the OE stuff. For the 5mm pipe, I used proper petrol pipe.

Just make sure it is vacuum pipe, i.e. semi-rigid type, otherwise the vacuum will cause it to collapse and you'll effectively have a blockage.

[faz]

Surely you dont have to worry about the pipe collapsing as the 90BHP does not work on vacuum but pressure as it has a wastegate.

[tdi90]

My N75 turned up today, and I fitted it in 5 mins.

 

The 1st piccy shows the old pipework and the old N75

The 2nd you should be able to see the pipe that goes to the air box

 

I'll give it a good thrashing, sorry test :16: on the way to work tonight. All I've left to change now is the vacum pipe to the turbo and hopefully all will be sorted.

Edited May 13, 2008 by tdi90

[Thefletch]

Many thanks again for your help. I will be very eager to know if it fixed your fault. Can you also let me know if there is a website that I can purchase the N75 valve from?

 

many thanks

 

Fletch

[tdi90]

Well, the test went well last night. It went straight upto 90mph (on the private road to work of course :wacko: ) with no hesitation or stuttering. There were also no new fault codes so fingers crossed. I am going to take the caravan for a test tow on Saturday so that will deffo show if the fault is fixed or not.

 

My old pipes had no obvious signs of cracks or splits, but there were loads of places where the braiding had worn through and the rubber pipe was easier to bend than in other areas.

 

Re the N75. I just ordered mine from a local ford dealer. Part number F1003803 sensor assy.

[Thefletch]

Thats great news that it fixed the fault. Lets hope that it will do the same for mine! I have ordered an N75 valve for myself from Ford at the price you mentioned which I was glad of since I had a feeling it was going to cost a fortune.

 

I have had a bit of a problem sourcing the vacuum tubing since by local auto stockists will supply for 5mm pipe but not the 3.5mm although I have found a place online that stocks it. Are you able to tell me approx how much of each pipe I would need to replace all the turbo hoses?

 

Many thanks once again

 

Fletch

[tdi90]

3 meters of 3.5mm

1.5 - 2 meters of 5mm

 

This is more than needed, but allows for some errors when cutting, or spares for next time :wacko:

 

When you route the pipes at the rear of the engine, make sure you clip them into the holders that are attached to various points. And make sure that they dont touch anything that'll get too hot (they may melt, if the pipe is not the braided outer type) I have my spare pipe in the car along with a pair of cutters, so if it does melt, I can fix at the road side.

 

 

Hope it solves ya problem mate.

[Thefletch]

thanks for all your help. I will let you know the outcome.

 

Fletch

[tdi90]

Took my caravan out for a test tow today and all was A1. The pipe work and N75 change cured the fault. :angry2:

[Thefletch]

Glad to hear it and I hope it solves my problem also! I am hoping to do mine this week so I will let you know. Thanks again for all your help.

 

Fletch

[Thefletch]

Sorry for the late update. The weekend before last I changed all the turbo hoses and the N75 valve. I could not believe the bad condition of the hoses, they were split and distorted and literally broke in my hand when removing so I felt quite sure this was the problem. Anyway during the test after replacement found the problem is still there so unfortunately did not fix the fault although possibly made the car run a little smoother but I am having to rethink! I did notice that one of the 5mm turbo hoses that I replaced seemed to go into another larger sensor towards the middle of the engine I believe. Is anybody able to tell me what this sensor does?

 

many thanks

[marinabrid]

does anyone know why this problem occurs usually in high gears,

ours is fine , revving thru the 3000-4000 rpm in 2 or 3rd gears but only when in 4th or 5th at the same rpm does the fault show again, and go into limp home. odd.

[tdi90]

Sorry to hear it didnt work for you mate. Can you point out the part you mean on the diagram I posted?

[simo]

thanks for all your help. I will let you know the outcome.

 

Fletch

I have a 1.9 TDI (110 BHP). I have a probable turbo problem. When towing a caravan, especially up hill, there is a definate power loss. This all started when I needed a new cylinder head after a valve collision with a piston. The engine sounds great apart from this power problem. The garage can't figure it out. They said they have replaced the vacuum hoses. Any ideas?

Simo

[f0ster]

Took my caravan out for a test tow today and all was A1. The pipe work and N75 change cured the fault. :D

 

hello

I can shed some light on this problem, the loss of power is caused by the boost pressure going over 2.2kpa, as soon as the pcm sees this over pressure situation

it shuts down the power by reducing the fuel being delivered by the pump, so that no damage is done, on the early galaxy you can do a reset simply by shutting off the throttle

and back on again, on the later model the ignition has to be switched off, it is caused by oil getting in to the pipes that control the boost via the n75 valve, the pipes are

far too long and oil gets stuck in them which causes a resonance to build up, the boost pressure has to go from the turbo to the pcm , by the time it gets there and the pcm then

respondes by activating the n75 valve the situation has gone critical and so you get a reduction in power, there are other factors that can cause this but this is the most common,

the waste gate on the turbo has to be checked for sticking also.

[gio]

Took my caravan out for a test tow today and all was A1. The pipe work and N75 change cured the fault. :D

 

hello

I can shed some light on this problem, the loss of power is caused by the boost pressure going over 2.2kpa, as soon as the pcm sees this over pressure situation

it shuts down the power by reducing the fuel being delivered by the pump, so that no damage is done, on the early galaxy you can do a reset simply by shutting off the throttle

and back on again, on the later model the ignition has to be switched off, it is caused by oil getting in to the pipes that control the boost via the n75 valve, the pipes are

far too long and oil gets stuck in them which causes a resonance to build up, the boost pressure has to go from the turbo to the pcm , by the time it gets there and the pcm then

respondes by activating the n75 valve the situation has gone critical and so you get a reduction in power, there are other factors that can cause this but this is the most common,

the waste gate on the turbo has to be checked for sticking also.

 

 

 

 

Now that could indeed shed light on the subject.... thanks f0ster

[bigdave982]

hi guys

got a similair problem on my p reg 90hp galaxy,seems to be the same symptoms except that i can also have a very lumpy tickover as well

after mesing around changing pipes on both sides iof the turbo and not improving much ,it was recommended that i bypass the valve altogether.

this has now been done so the small pipe on the pressure side of the turbo goes stariaght to the wastegate,( via the valve,by connecting the 2 pipes with the valve permananlty open)seems to have fixed it temporarily

 

Did you have the lumpy tickovver,?? still